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- Hike: Ontario Ridge - Avila
Distance: 2.75 miles Time: 1 hour 30 mins Ascent: 576ft Difficulty: Moderate Difficulty: Moderate Some elevation, worth the climb A decent climbs with proper views at the top to justify it. Nothing technical, but you'll want decent footwear and a snack in your pack Located 10 minutes from Highway 101 on the road to Avila this ridge is short and sweet, gives you a decent workout and height quickly. There are two ways to start, both are steep. I started from the Pirates Cove end, parking at the Cave Landing Road parking lot. The trail goes uphill immediately and is one heck of a warm up. I'll be honest with you about the first fifteen minutes: they are brutal as you climb 200ft in that short time. Taking is slow a sure is the only way. The footing is loose in places, the gradient is unforgiving, you may need three points to the deck in places (yes I mean use a hand!). Stick with it. It's worth every step and breathlessness. It will be over in 15 minutes! Once the mild Type 2 fun is done (you know the type that miserable while it's happening, brilliant once you've done it ) everything changes. The views open up across Avila Bay and towards Shell Beach Pismo, the gradient softens, although still continues up for another 120ft. The rolling ridgeline walk is well marked and a good trail. After about half a mile there's a hidden swing with a view straight down to Pirates Cove. A well earned stop and photo opportunity at this point! The ridge itself is mostly exposed although some shade comes from the trees dotted along the way. On a warm Central Coast morning this is glorious; it was getting pretty hot once I was on the top and was glad to have done the climb early. Coming off the ridge, you have two options. A right-hand trail descents fairly easily to Bluff Road it's rocky and needs a bit of care underfoot, but it brings you out onto a flat asphalt path running in front of some spectacular houses perched above Pirates Cove. From here you can see across to Smugglers Cave, and if you have the legs for it, the detour is absolutely worth it. The other option is to ascent again and then descend on the steep nose of the ridge - I decided my knees and butt would prefer the easier option. Be aware that Pirates Cove is a clothing optional beach - it was definately a day for a dip when I did this hike but not about to join that gang! Bring water and a decent hat. Decent hiking shoes are also a must, and I had my hiking pole which I used on the descent (and in hindsight should have got out for the ascent!). The swing is tagged on the route so be sure to click below! The details: ✓ Can be started from either end — Cave Landing Road car park is the Pirates Cove start ✓ Two descent options — take the right fork before the nose for the rocky but scenic route down ✓ Smugglers Cave is worth the detour if you have time and energy left in the tank !Mostly exposed — hat and plenty of water essential on a warm day ! Loose footing on the initial ascent — take it steady i Pirates Cove is clothing optional — just so you know what you're walking above
- Hike: Montana de Oro Badger and Bluff Trial
Distance: 2.5 miles plus Bluff Trail Time: 1 hour 30 mins Ascent: 596ft Difficulty: Easy - Moderate A rolling loop above Pismo with sweeping views from the Oceana Dunes to Avila Bay. Difficulty: Easy - Moderate Flat or a small amount elevation. Well-marked and signed. The kind of route where you spend more time looking at the view than watching your feet. Montana de Oro is one of California's many state parks (the younger cousins of the National Parks) and there are a lot of trails to choose from here. Its one of my favourite go to spots for a hike, amaxng views and feeling a little more remote in this busy corner to Califiornia. The Badger Trail is a circular route that stay in the foothills of the park, with the coastline below and the ridge and Valencia peak behind. The trail starts with an initial ascent that gets the legs working early, then settles into a loop that winds below Valencia Peak through quieter, more sheltered terrain. We had a good section of it to ourselves as most people where on the Bluff Trail or getting a good workour on Valencia Peak. Most maps will have you start at the main parking area close to the Bluff Trail trailhead and visitor center. This was almost full when we arrived so we carried on along the road to a quiter parking spot. Here you can access either the Badger Trail or the Bluff Trail. We then took the Badger Trail in an anti-clockwise direction. As the trail winds below Valencia Peak it could be easy to get distracted and keep going up, however these trails are well signposed so make sure you pay attention! Keep going past the and follow the main trail down — this completes the loop at the right level and brings you back without taking in a summit. Valencia Peak is on my list to return to and summit another day. As we'd completed the trial in good time we worked our way back to the car along the Bluff Trail, This is a great trail for everyone it is flat, wide, and the sea views are spectacular. The Pacific stretches out and at regular intervals, spurs peel off to the edge for viewpoints to observe the power of the ocean and maybe spot some sealife. . There's barely any elevatio so all your attention can go on the view. The trail is well-maintained and clearly marked from the main car park near the visitor centre. As you continue along the trail there is then a marked sign for the Badger Trail that takes you on a short ascent back to the car if you are in the second parking area. The details: ✓Both accessed from the main car park by the Bluff Trailhead and small visitor centre ✓Overflow parking further down the road if the main parking area is full ✓The park has a huge network of trails — easy to extend the day if you want more ! On Badger: walk past the Valencia Peak turn-off and descend on the main trail to complete the loop i Pin drop in the link for exact parking location
- Hike: Pismo Preserve Loop
Distance: 3.5 miles Time: 2 hours Ascent: 530ft Difficulty: 3 out of 5 A rolling loop above Pismo with sweeping views from the Oceana Dunes to Avila Bay. Difficulty: Moderate Some elevation, worth the climb A few climbs with wonderful views to justify them but you'll want decent footwear and a snack in your pack. Perfect for families with older kids and anyone who's reasonably active. The Pismo Preserve sits just off the HIghway 101, on California's Central Coast. Pismo Preserve is located in the hills that tower above Pismo Beach. Once you step through the trailhead gate and the grasslands open up ahead of you, its a hidden gem that the locals flock to. The area is managed by the Land Conservancy of San Luis Obispo and you can find out more on their website including a handy trail map: https://lcslo.org/pismo-preserve/ This was our first outing to Pismo Preserve and we arrived to an already full parking lot, Google Maps shows the overflow parking area which is about a 5 minute walk from the trailhead. We started on the Spring to Spring Trail to gained elevation early, the views of the bay below getting more spectauular with every stop of a breather. At the top of the trail we linked onto the Discovery Trail . The climb is steady and the 3 under 12's with us took it all in their stride — around 532 feet of ascent spread over the first two miles. From the upper reaches you can see across Pismo Beach, track the dunes at Oceano shimmering in the distance, and look north toward Avila Bay on a clear day. The trail continues out to Lovers Point , a natural stopping spot with a well-placed benche to enjoy the views, top up on snacks and find a geocache. The return follows the Discovery Trail back down before joining the Low Road to the car park — a gentler descent through a mix of open grassland and shaded tree sections that makes a nice contrast to the exposed ridge walk above. The preserve is part of a broader trail network with routes ranging from around 1.5 to 5.5 miles, so it's easy to find a trail that suits your ability. The trails are shared with mountain bikers —so make sure you give way, we found most of the bikers have bells and give you fair warning but perhaps leave you noise cancelling headphones at home. Trails are well-signed and beautifully maintained. The details: Toilets available at the trailhead Geocaches hidden along the route — bring the app Car park fills up on weekends — overflow parking is available across the 101 Most of the trail is exposed — hat and sunscreen recommended Shared use with mountain bikes — keep right on blind corners Be careful of rattlesnakes on warm days
- Wildlife Watching on the Central Coast
A day on the water with Avila Beach Ocean Safaris The California Central Coast is full of incredible wildlife, most of it under or on the ocean. We’ve been making the most of otter and sea lion spotting opportunities and taken a few whale watching tours further north from Monterey (which is probably the best know spot in California for marine wildlife). But what if you get away from the busy spots and find a hidden gem in one of the most beautiful bays between LA and San Francisco? Which for us is an experience just one hour from home. Avila Beach Ocean Safaris Avila Beach is located in San Luis Obispo County, a 10 minute detour off Highway One and you find a cute resort town. This is a great place to stop on a road trip whether heading north or south bound on a Pacific Coast Highway road trip (and a lot less busy than the Big Sur section). Slow Travel is a trend that should well and truly stay, taking an extra day or two to drive this coast you will experience hidden gems and experiences away from the crowds. I’ve been following Avila Ocean Safaris on Instagram for while. Vincent Shay, the owner, is a Avila beach native and professional wildlife photographer. He exudes a passion for this little bay that I am sure will get everyone who hops on his RIB as excited as we were. I booked the Harbor and Wildlife Tour as it’s not quite whale season and I wanted to see what mini Just Adventure thought of the boat before committing to the open sea. The tour is at the adventurous end of the wildlife viewing spectrum and the RIB is an open boat, low to the water, gets up some decent speed and there are no facilities on board. Just my type of trip! As we drove an hour north to Avila the Central Coast was Central Coasting, thick fog and a chilly start. Weather does not put these Brits off! By the time we boarded at 10am the fog and my regret of wearing shorts was beginning to lift. Layers are much needed here, especially when heading out on the water - as it sunblock, hats and water. I’d booked this as a surprise so the first mini and husband knew of this was when they went down the steps of Hartford Pier at Port San Luis and were met by Vincent and the little RIB. We donned our lifejackets, boarded and set off slowly out into the harbor. Vincent Shay is a professional wildlife photographer and knows these waters well, he knows where the otters will be, where the sea lions are and the names of the seabirds. I’m getting to bird spotting age and enjoy being able to name more than a Pelican and a Seagull! Our first ‘stop’ was to see some otters and a harbor seal with its baby, there is an abundance of kelp in they area so otters love it. The otters starting fighting with each other - when the pro photographer guide grabs a camera you know its a good shot! Never too young for binoculars! We soon realized we would be getting more than a wildlife tour as Vincent explained to us about he geology of the bay - who knew California had a state rock? It’s serpentine, which is a green rock also quite easy to spot within the cliffs. He told us about how the Chumash people used the land and the ‘pismu’ tar in the rocks was used to glue things together (actually mini answered the question correctly and amazed us!). We continued along the cliff edge and around Smith Island and along the sea defense which is a haven for sea birds, there were pelican, black oyster catchers (which mate for life so you generally see two), pigeon guillemot’s and pelagic cormorants. We also saw a young seal hauling out as the tide was beginning to drop so there were plenty of comfy rocks for a lie down. The water was incredibly clear and we could see hundreds of fish in the bay, its been unusually warm and low wind the last few weeks so the waters are warmer than normal and life is in abundance earlier than normal. This is potentially going to a great year for whale watching in Avila! This area of the bay was once home to a pier used for whaling and its interesting to know the history and how things change, commercial whaling no longer happens but boats still head out when they pass, but now its so us humans can marvel at these incredible creatures and protect them for the good of the planet. We then headed out around the harbor wall for a view up the coast, it was fun going fast in a small boat, the fog obscured the views in a very atmospheric way. We passed a buoy with sea lions basking in the warmth before zipping over to White Rock and Pirates cove. We spotted a Cormorant that had surfaced from a dive, fish in beak so we circled round to see it up close. This is the beauty of a private trip on a small boat, you can be reactive with what is going on around you and not be stuck to a ‘must see’ time limited list. At White Rock the visibility was outstanding, Vincent was equally amazed and I think we got the best of the Central Coast today. The fog was still on the higher ground but the sun was shining on the sea, we learned that the Chumash called Avila the ‘whole in the sky’ and it really is as its protected from the fog a little. We spent time at White Rock marveling at the reefs and visibility below us, I wish we had out wetsuits as I would have jumped right in and snorkel the reefs. Instead I dangled over the edge with my GoPro with varying results of success. We then headed over to Pirates Cove, confirmed the rumors that it is a clothing optional beach and enjoyed being surrounded by sea birds. This time Brandt’s cormorants and they were literally sitting like ducks in a row! As we made our way back towards Avila harbor we found a raft of Otters, one with a baby, chilling in the kelp. Again, a small boat is the best way to observe them, you are almost at their level, the engine can be cut off completely or very quiet in neutral. The fog had started to come in as we headed back to the pier, spotted a few more otters and said our goodbyes. This was by far the most amazing wildlife experience we have had on the Central Coast, and I know we will be back when the whales arrive and will be taking visitors too. This even beat Monterey (am I allowed to say that out loud?). Why Choose this trip? This is more than a wildlife trip, this is a true local expert taking you out on the ocean, he cares about these animals and conserving the environment. Guides do make the difference between an excursion and an experience. Vincent immerses you in the marine life and history of this area and makes you feel part of the environment. He really wants to show off his home to visitors. The options include a harbor tour, Coastal and Wildlife Safari, Whale Watching Trips from June and private safaris recommended for photographers and wildlife enthusiasts. What to take: A sense of adventure Layers - even on a warm day I had one 3 layers Hat and sunblock Water Camera - a good lens if you have one Binoculars Stay Longer This is a great overnight stop on a Pacific Coast Highway trip. There are some locally owned hotels in town and excellent food options. For good coffee and ice cream the place to stop is Kraken. My favorite in town for a quick lunch is Avila Market - great wraps. This time we ate at Mersea’s on the pier which although busy was quick, good views and a decent virgin Margarita. Behind the scenes of me capturing the underwater shots - would have been so much easier in my wetsuit!
- A Weekend in Joshua Tree National Park
Once I had stopped singing U2 songs and introducing the much loved Joshua Tree album to my 11 year old, I set about planning a trip to its namesake National Park! This was to be my first solo adventure since arriving in the USA. The small one was due to attend Scout camp in the park so instead of missing out I planned to drop him off and have a child-free weekend. In the end my husband was available to join me and I can’t even remember the last time we had a couples adventure. Joshua Trees - not even trees at all! Why Joshua Tree? This is where two deserts meet, the Mojave and Colorado ecosystems collide making this area rich in plants and wildlife. The area became a National Park to protect the name sake Joshua Trees from being extracted. Fun fact, they aren’t even trees they are acutely part of the Agave family! Not only is this area famous for its trees but also the sculpted rock formations that seem other worldly. With climbers and boulderers flocking from afar to climb here. Deserts to a Brit are unusual and certainly one within a 5 hour drive impossible. Yes, I’ve been to Egypt, Jordan, Morocco and inland Australia but I can’t just load up the Jeep and head to the desert from my home in the green and pleasant English hills! We stayed at Black Rock Campsite which is close to the town of Yucca Valley, officially it is inside the park but there are no park entrance gates to get to it so you can visit this area of the park without actually entering the park. There is a small Nature Center in at the campsite, staffed by Rangers so you can pick up your stamps, maps and gifts from here. Our son was staying at Jumbo Rocks and we dropped him off in the dark before heading back to our camp site. The desert is cold at night in February (this is also a reason that high season runs from October to March in Joshua Tree as its stinking hot in the summer months). We woke early as an exciting day was planned. After pitching our tent in the dark, we unzipped the tent and were greeted by an incredible vista. The campsite was covered in Joshua Trees and various other cacti, and surrounded by hills and mountains. The crisp morning air produced clear blue skies and the moon was still up. Camp mornings should be easier without a 11 year old to manage, turns out things still take way longer than they should, especially since we’d arrived in the dark and there was no organization involved in the unpacking! So we got ready as quickly as possible and made a take out coffee before driving to the park. From Black Rock it is about a 30 minute drive to the park entrance and then there is one main road through the park with a few turn offs to the east and west. We had driven a fair stretch of the park in the dark to drop our son the previous night so we were mesmerised by the views and endless Joshua Trees that seemed endless. Our early start was on purpose, we had a rendezvous to get to. I had booked a private climbing session to explore the crazy rocks with Stone Adventures and we were greeted by our guide in the park. We were kitted up and then drove a short distance to a pull in close to some beginner rocks. Its been a while since I have been on actual rock and my regular indoor sessions are no longer regular, but I was keen to explore this park differently. Our guide set up some cool climbs for us and coached us through different techniques to conquer them (chimney-ing anyone?). The views from the top of the rocks were amazing and well worth the effort. We had a great time top roping and still had two hours of our guide to go, he took us to the Hidden Valley area of Joshua Tree. This area is pretty much in the middle of the park and busy with climbers and boulderers on a Saturday morning. Out guide led us away from the parking lot and towards some rocks and then told us to put on our helmets. The proceeded to disappear into a tiny hole and inside the rocks. From here we scrambled through the inners of Hidden Valley, squeezing through small holes and up steep sections. Soon enough we popped out at the top with the most amazing views across most of Joshua Tree National Park. We traversed the top of the rocks before finding our way down, part was even on our bums as a proper slide. I highly recommend doing some sort of guided excursion in a National Park, the knowledge of these guides is incredible and you get to see areas that are off the beaten track. Check out my Reel on this on Instagram - @emily_justadventure This area was once a ranch and we were shown an old cave with a door on that remains a mystery as to its use. Pretty interesting, but not as interesting as what came before the ranchers and rangers. This, of course, was once the indigenous peoples land and we were shown rock art from a time before America was colonised, these stories are still not shared enough by the NPS, and certainly the general visitor will not learn about these people, lots of work needs to be done on this, in my opinion. We must remember that there were people on these lands long before us that were displaced by ranchers or when lands became ‘protected’. Finally our time with our guide was over, we headed to a pull out and had a tailgate picnic and planned an afternoon hike. About a kilometer into said hike we realized our muscles had had enough so headed into town of the obligatory visitor centre stop and coffee. And then we had a glorious child free afternoon reading books and chilling undisturbed at the campsite. We had an early dinner as the sunset early and then headed into the park to star gaze. The spot we found was far from quiet and I soon discoverd the error of not bringing gloves to the desert and we didn’t last very long. I got one half decent photo before we headed back to the warmth of our sleeping bags. The next morning we had to collect our son from across the park, so back in early and a drive to Jumbo Rocks. This campsite is more remote than Black Rock, quieter than Hidden Valley so if we went again this is where we would stay. You literally camp within the rocks. After a short handover we headed to Halls of Horror area, another set of spectacular rocks rising from the desert. Here we scrambled some more, our son had new found confidence after a day with the Scouts and we hiked around this beautiful area. Our final stops were, of course, the obligatory sign photo and back to the visitor centre to complete the Junior Ranger program and a new badges awarded. There are an abundance of trails, areas to scramble and off road tracks that can be explored in the park and our two days definitely was not enough. We barely scratched the surface so will return (although I feel we keep saying this and our time in the USA is short). Does everyone underestimate the time each park needs? And I am guilty of the tick boxing of parks and need too slow done and get deeper in each one we visit? Conservation in Joshua Tree Joshua Trees are protected under the California Conservation Act due to them being at risk of climate change. The desert is getting hotter, this is proven. These ‘trees’ could be eliminated due to the small areas that they cover. 10,000 years ago the trees were dispersed by the giant sloths that would eat them and sow their seeds elsewhere, this method is now extinct. So now they are pollinated by moths and most of the seeds fall close the parent tree, thus making the area they cover smaller. In fact, Minerva Hoy championed the area to become a national park because so many trees were being extracted to be used ornamentally. There are conservation plans in place. But what can you do when you visit? Ensure you only stop at designated pulls in Don’t let your engine idle - emissions is one of the biggest issues in the park Remove all waste that you take in Visit during quieter times so impact is more spread out Learn about the fragility of the ecosystem and make a few changes at home. Champion for more public transport/shuttle services in parks. These can drastically reduce climate impact. Planning your time in Joshua Tree Again we did a too short visit. I would recommend 3 to 4 days to see the park properly. Camp inside the park to get the best experience and lessen your driving (emissions), the night sky and the ability to start hikes early means it will be a quieter experience. Either pre-book at Black Rock or Jumbo Rocks or take a change on the first come first served sites throughout the park. Most have little to no facilities as no water in the park so be prepared! If you do stay outside the park, plan to get in early. And work backwards, drive to the furthest point first and go against the crowds. Ensure you carry more water (and food) than you think you will need, there is none in the park and even on a cool desert day its easy to get dehydrated. Aim to be there on a Friday evening as there are Ranger led stargazing actives. They can be booked on the National Park Service website. And of course, go to at Visitor Center to get some expert advice from a Ranger.
- Winter in Yosemite
Our post Christmas and New Year trip this year took us with friends to Monterey (where we pretty much did the same itinerary as last time ) and as they headed to the airport we crossed California to Yosemite National Park. The plan was swim in the sea in the morning and play in the snow in the afternoon. But, alas, weather had other ideas. Monterey was too cold and rough seas for a dip, and the winter snow was yet to arrive in Yosemite. Yosemite Valley from Tunnel View We made a quick stop in Mariposa, a true wild west style town and spent some time in the gem shops and refueling (both the car and us). From here, the road climbed towards Yosemite National Park climbed and wound its way through the mountains, we leveled out as the road hugged the banks of the Merced River. Soon enough we were at the gate (having missed the sign for the obligatory photo) and found ourselves in the awe inspiring Yosemite Valley. Within just a few short miles El Capitan was towering above us, as were the Bridalveil Falls, here we stopped for a short walk to the bottom of the thundering falls and we felt the spray on our faces. This is one of the easy trails in the park as it is asphalt all the way to the bottom and has step free access. We continued on the one-way road that loops through the park that took us to the Yosemite Valley Lodge. At one point we were driving on the left because you are supposed to, as a Brit this sent a wave of panic that after a year of driving on the right I had go it wrong! Bridalvail Falls The Yosemite Valley Lodge is located right in the middle of Yosemite Valley and is really tough to get a room there most of the year, we got lucky by coming in the winter. The rooms are clean, comfortable and functional - they could do with being updated but the trade off is the location. Our room had an obscured view of Yosemite Falls through the trees. Within the lodge complex is a General Store where you can pick up supplies and a choice of eateries for all budgets a canteen style restaurant, a lounge bar with snacks and the Mountain Room a proper restaurant with prices to match! We settled in, had our dinner and played games in the room. The next day we were excited to start exploring the park even if it was a little rainy - nothing these Brits and good waterproofs couldn’t cope with. As ever with a trip to a National Park, the best place to start is at the Visitors Centre. We drove around Yosemite’s one-way system to discover that the village (where most of the park amenities are) is a short ten-minute walk from our lodge. We bought to obligatory sticker, walking pole badge and map (waterproof was advised) and asked for suggestions of hikes. We chose a short one to start us off but when I realised how short it was we reassessed and decided to link two together. So we walked from Ahwahnee Meadow to Mirror Lake. The route started on the wide bike path which is great for getting round the valley on two wheels but a tad boring to walk on. We soon veered off onto a proper trail that gained a little height and took us through sequoias, massive granite boulders and below towering mountains. Eventually we arrived at Mirror Lake. The peaks were shrouded in cloud which made for an atmospheric view but not the full mirrored image of Half Dome you often get. We admired the view for a while willing Half Dome to appear from behind its cloud and eventually took the asphalt route to Curry Village. We were following a thunderous creek, fast moving water due to the current rain. As we arrived back in Curry Village the rain really was coming down. We caught the free shuttle bus around to Yosemite Village within minutes. We stocked up on supplies and headed to our lodge for an afternoon sheltering from the rain, playing games (highly recommend the National Parks version of Yahtzee, organizing photos and relaxing. The next day, we woke to heavy rain and decided to not do a big hike and took a short walk to Yosemite Village. Here there are two museums that kept us out of the rain for a while. The Yosemite Museum shares the history of the indigenous people that call this land their home and we spoke to a ranger who had worked for National Parks Service for 35 years. In his current role he engages with communities that are underrepresented as park visitors to showcase that the parks are for all. He also gave us an insightful lesson how how the mountains are formed in Yosemite. We then went to the Mountain Center to learn more about the conservation efforts to protect the park, the geology and, most interesting to me, the history of climbing. The Ansel Gallery is also here, we had a quick look but were wet, tired and had an 11 year old in tow. A quick lunch and shuttle back to the hotel to escape the rain, we expected and afternoon of snuggling down and a lot of reading. But at around 2pm the snow started to fall. We quickly put on all our layers and waterproofs and headed out. We walked the paved path to Yosemite Falls and the snow was starting to settle. So we continued over to the meadows, crossed a bridge and followed a snowy trail along the Merced River. The snow was getting thicker by the time we arrived back at the lodge. We were soaked so rested until dinner. We had a warm chilli at the lodge before answering dozens of games, reading and drying out our kit. Overnight the snow had kept falling so we woke to the winter wonder land we had wanted. We walked to the village and decided to give the try trail to Vernal Falls, which can get pretty slippy, so took the shuttle to Happy Isles. The trail follows the river and rose quickly. It was a stunning view down the gorge back towards the valley. The snow was falling from the trees as it thawed and we kept getting icy snow dumped on our heads. The path kept rising and the snow was becoming slushy and slippery, we didn’t quite make it to the bridge as we were sliding around a bit and confidence was going downhill too! We took another of the shuttle buses to Degnan’s Kitchen for a warm bowl of soup before walking back to the lodge. Half Dome was finally out of the clouds and looked spectacular dusted in snow. After a rest we drove out to El Capitan and spent some time under this magnificent rock face. I had become quite obsessed with wanting to see El Cap since watching Free Solo, and now want to return to climb just a tiny little part of it. Half Dome in the snow We then hopped on another shuttle to Cathedral Beach and walked back to the car. The scenery was amazing. Cathedral rocks towered above us as we stomped through the snow in amongst the trees. We stopped to admire the view of Cathedral rocks and El Capitan from a meadow with a bridge over the river and followed the road back to the car. Back at the lodge, there were snowball fights and our final how the day was done. On our last day and after packing the car up we drove around the valley loop. The sun was shining and the snow on the mountains looked spectacular. We stopped at El Capitan and then at the meadow overlooking Yosemite Falls to take our final photos. We made a quick stop at the visitor center to pick up the obligatory Junior Ranger badge, this is such a great program for small ones and not so small ones (me!) to learn all about the parks from the communities to the geography and how to protect them. A must for any trip to a park. Our final drive took us out of the park via Tunnel View, we stopped for a quick photo. This was the first place for days that we had experienced a crowd and almost did’t get spot to park. I then t drove the winding mountain road to Wawona, I have an irrational fear of sheer drops especially on mountain roads so it is far better for me to drive and stare at the tarmac and let the boys enjoy the view. At Wawona we wandered around the Pioneer Village and learned the history of the early pioneers. This was an unexpected stop but well worth it, I am in awe of how these people travelled across this landscapes in the 1800’s. From here we got back on the road and headed home through the Sequoia National Forest and across the boring Central Valley to the Pacific Coast and home. We will return in the warmer months and embrace to crowds. Traveling in Low Season There are so many reasons travel in low season, lower prices, easier to secure accommodation less people and less crowded trails . Overtourism (too many people visiting one place at one time) is increasingly and issue for many national parks and schemes such as timed tickets in high season have been withdrawn in the last few years. Be aware that there isn’t as much open in low season , many of the eateries (particularly in Curry Village are closed) so a little bit of planning is required. Make sure you read the park newspaper provided at the gate as this has what’s open listed or download the National Parks Service App. Planning your time in Yosemite National Park We only scratched the surface of Yosemite as only the valley was open at this time. My top tip would be utilize the shuttle buses throughout the park. Leave your car at the lodge or your campground and hop on the free buses that stop at many of the trail heads. This also reduces carbon emissions in the park, you’ve come to a precious place so be mindful of your impact. Use the National Parks Service app to decide on what you want to do, visit the Rangers at the visitor center who will advise on conditions and what you should do, give them as much information about your abilities as you can so they match you with the best trails and experiences. If they are running, take part in a ranger led activity and defiantly do the Junior Ranger Program ! If you do need to go in the summer, plan way ahead and book accommodation/campgrounds as soon as it opens up. The campgrounds book up as soon as bookings open so make sure you have a recreation.gov account and download the app so you are always logged in and ready to book wherever you are the day the campgrounds release. All this information is on recreation.gov Prebook any tours , in the summer you can do a intro to climbing, kayak on the river and take guided photography courses. All of these will book up. And finally, practice Leave No Trace or leave it better than you found it.
- Redwoods and Northern California Coast
Our final stretch took uu back into Californai and the mighty Redwoods — we kayaked the crystal-clear Smith River, hiked amongst giants, collected Junior Ranger badges. We ticked off 3 more movie locations As we wound south through Mendocino, Bodega Bay, and finally across the fogged out Golden Gate Bridge and the end of our trip. Two weeks, 2,300 miles - done! We woke at Kamp Klamath to the dawn chorus at 5am and snoozed until the sun came up. I’ve since learned that the Klamath River has recently been restored by removing dams in conjunction with the indigenous people. Today we were to be immersed in the Redwoods, so many people had told has how wonderful these trees are so we were excited for the day. Not one to do things normally, I had booked a kayaking trip on the Smith River to paddle through these great wonders. The Smith River is the only river without a dam in California, the water is crystal clear and cold. My favorite type of water! We launched our inflatable kayaks and followed the guide down river, there were a few small rapids to get over. Super fun and no one fell out. Soon, we were joined by a river otter who swam with us, climbed onto the banks and waggled its butt at us. This was so incredible, we are used to seeing the sea otters on the coast so to see a river one was marvelous. We pulled into a rock in the middle of the river with the opportunity to jump off - i didn’t but of course I got in a swam in the cool refreshing water. Back in our kayaks and we arrived at Stout Grove. Quite a popular grove in the Jedediah Smith Redwood area so we got some odd looks wandering around in wetsuits and life vests. Seeing the trees with a guide was worthwhile as we learnt a fair amount about the trees and how this ecosystem behaves. Back on the river and the final stretch to our put in point and we had to negotiate more small rapids and one that was Grade II! It was great fun but H was getting nervous about the massive rapid ahead. We went over it and told him afterwards that it was done and he was do proud! Back at the beach and our Jeep - we dried off, had another tail gate picnic before heading to the visitor center. The National Park Service visitor centers are worth going to. The knowledge of the rangers is incredible and they will help you find a trail or area to explore that suits your needs. They also run the Junior Ranger Program so H collected his workbook completed it and earned his second badge. We drove along the Avenue of Titans and took a quick walk along the Grove of Titans (there were a lot of people so we didn’t last long). Further along the road that winds through the Redwood Grove was the Boy Scout Trail so we hiked some of this one instead. No boardwalks and a proper trail. These trees are way more impressive than anyone can describe to you, hundred of years old, taller than tall things and doing their bit of the climate every single day. We returned to camp, lit a fire, toasted marshmallows and popped popcorn and reflected on the incredible day. We’d earned a lazy start, H even lazier - we were decamping around him and finally had to wake him up by deflating his bed. Our first stop was the Prairie Creek Visitor Center where H earner his third Junior Ranger Badge. This area is new growth Redwoods so it looks a little different to the Jedediah area, but we weren’t here for the Redwoods. We had managed to get a permit for Fern Canyon so headed for the track to get to this magically place. The NPS website and the guidebook warn that you must have a decent car to get along this route. It is a dust road that winds through the trees and towards the coast before arriving at the trail head carpark. Which was full of Tesla’s and even Cruise America camper! The Canyon is incredible with a stream running through, it is recommended to take water shoes as sometimes its impassable without them. We managed in our waterproof boots and avoided wading. There are trees to clamber over and rocks to navigate. The canyon is full of life, so green with a variety of plants throughout. Sadly no dinosaurs as this canyon was used in Jurassic Park. Back along the dust track and onwards to the Humbolt Redwoods. This is the first place we actually managed to get a spot in the state park campsite so we we’re pitch amongst these giant trees. We had another slow start as the pace of life on road has slowed, the sun rose and beamed light between the trees which was spectacular. Our plan was to stay local an the visitor centre was right next to to our campsite. We asked about good places to hike and were given a good itinerary that would take in the highlights of the Humbolt Redwoods whilst also getting off the beaten track. H earner another Junior Ranger Badge. We drove along the Avenue to Giants that winds through the Redwood grove and found the ‘Founders Tree’ which is massive. We did the classic photo of arms out stretched and could have down with a a few friends to get all the way round. We headed to the Bull Creek trail and did a 4 mile hike through these impressive tress, the first grove we awed at was the Tall Tree Grove - I love the imaginative names here. We barely saw a soul as not many people sway far from the road and parking lots. Our hike took us over streams and up into these impressive towering trees. This area was used as Endor in Star Wars - the boys were way more impressed than me. We headed back to camp and grabbed our swimmers to cool off in the river across the road from our campsite. We waded and dipped and had the whole river to ourselves. We had a Young Sheldon inspired dinner - spaghetti and hotdogs which is actually pretty delicious. A campfire, more marshmallows and a peaceful night in the trees. As we left the Redwoods behind we really felt like we were on our way home. There was one last things to do before heading back to the coast. There is a famous drive through tree that Grandad and told H all about. The ‘experience’ cost us $15 and despite the guy measuring the height of the car we almost lost a back off the roof and jammed the Jeep into the narrow whole. It was pretty funny but my Dad still owes us $15! H found it hilarious - particuarly as the French man who was deciding whether to take his hire car through took one look at his wife an said “Non” very firmly. We took the mountain road to back to the coast which was heart in mouth type switch backs and climbs. I almost kissed the ground when we got our first glimpse of the Pacific. Back on the coast road we wound our way to Mendocino and our final camping spot. We headed straight to town and ate an amazing lunch in now of the many independent eateries, this small town is full or independent shops and art galleries. Our camp was a small campsite with just 4 tent pitches in the woods, the sky was clear and the start shone brightly, we had a relaxing evening around the fire. Our final non travel day was spent in this pretty coastal town, we spent the day on the beach, walking the cliff paths and mooching around the shops. The coast here is stunning, and the town is at the mouth of Big River. There is a kayaking/canoeing company that you can rent traditional canoes from to explore the river, it looked great but alas we should have booked a while back. We had a final camp meal sausages - I had the most bizarre conversation with the butcher who had moved to this remote stretch of California from Essex (UK) which explained why the sausages were so good. Our final night camping night was so peaceful with bats buzzy around the camp and I made a point of getting up in the night to see the incredible stars. Now we really feel like we are heading home as we have one night stop left. Our route hugged the foggy coast, the route twists and turns along rugged coastline and through small coastal towns. Whilst today wasn’t a long drive we decided we want to just get to our last stop as I had booked a lovely hotel with a pool. Our final stop was a Bodega Bay - famous for being the location of Hitchcock’s The Birds - and we our hotel was The Inn at the Tides. This was a real treat at the end of a long journey. We spent the afternoon in the pool and hot tub, sat on our veranda and watched the fog roll in. We ate at the Wharf which was originally used in the Birds. The fog really rolled in whilst we were eating and by the time we got back to the hotel to enjoy our complimentary bottle of wine we deemed it too cold to sit out and enjoy the ‘view’. We’ve definitely lost our British hardiness. On last highlight of the trip was to be on the long drive home. Our route took us towards San Francisco and across the Golden Gate Bridge, in true San Francisco Bay the bridge was shrouded in fog but it lifted enough to view the bridge. The drive across was not fun, I was in the driving seat and unusually for the US the lanes are narrow - I need to work out how to remove the audio from the GoPro video! Five hours later and we completed the circuit - 2,300 miles completed.
- The I5 to Portland, Oregon
The American road trip is part of the American cultural identify. The open roads, long distances, summer escapes to the National Parks and State Parks, small towns and big cities. Unlike the UK where a two hour car ride is long, here the journey is part of the adventure, Spotify gets loaded, the Yeti is packed with snacks and drinks and off you go! In part one of our 2025 trip we take scenic detours, find hidden waterfalls, and drive the long road north. In mid-June, we embarked on our first major USA road trip, covering over 2,300 miles from our home on California’s Central Coast to Northern California, reaching the top of Oregon, and winding back down the coast. For my dear British readers to put that into context you’d have to drive from Land’s End to John O’Groates two and 3/4 times to get that mileage. Or from my hometown of Basingstoke in southern England to Athens….But the difference is the roads. To travel from Cornwall to Scotland the route involves two A Roads (similar to a Highway - can be single lane in both directions of double lane with a median) and 5 Motorways (similar to a Freeway or Interstate). From our house we took Highway 1 for an hour, crossed to the Interstate 5 which we followed pretty much all the way to Portland. The I5 and Highway 1 both start on the border of Mexico and end at the border of Canada! Driving is so much easier on the long straight roads of the United States, but veer off the main freeways and there are some exceptionally scenic winding roads too, of which we drove a few on this trip. I spent far too long planning it, but with 25 years of travel industry experience I like to seek out the extra special spots and have everything planned. Once I realized that state campsites fill months in advance my search for nice places to stay also took way longer than expected. I booked the majority of accommodation in April for a June departure and have learnt we need to start planning a little earlier for the next one. Summer break rolled around and we filled the Jeep with the camping gear and ALL the kit and headed off on our epic trip. We combined nights at motels, hotels, glamping sites and camp grounds with the main rule of if we’re staying one night it was in a place with walls and no tent faffing! Our plan was to push to the top of Oregon as quick as we could using the Interstate 5 (I5) which is a soulless road straight up the middle of California and Oregon. But as I started planning I discovered there were plenty of side trips off the I5 to relieve the monotony and slow the trip down. We roll at dawn..... First stop, Sacramento. Small person (H) had been learning about Californian history so when he realized we were doing a quick night stop in Sacramento he asked if we could go to Sutter’s Fort, Sutter was taught as a hero of the gold rush in school, and to cut a long story short Sutter’s Fort on educates visitors on how the indigenous population were treated but this hero. H soon realized that history isn’t always taught in the most rounded informed way, every nation has much work to do on this. I managed to book the worst motel in Sacramento and we had to completely unpack to the Jeep and secure everything safely and sleep with one eye open. We were within walking distance of Sacramento Old Town so we headed there for a quick dinner and look around and watched the historic train pull back into the museum. An early start and we headed to Shasta County, the I5 started to climb and got a little winding, in the distance we could see Mount Shasta with its snow capped summit. We stopped at Lake Shasta for a hike - I’d found the Bailey trail which was an easy trail on a promontory that gave use great vistas of the lake and mountains around us. It was quiet on the trail, we didn’t see another hiker but we watched plenty of people enjoying the lake by boat and quirky houseboats which you can hire to stay on. We continued up the I5 to our accommodation at Dunsmuir, the Caves Springs Resort. I’d booked a surprise and our first proper night was spent in an Airstream and redeemed myself for the motel. Dunsmuir is located on the banks of the Sacramento River so we went for a short walk to its banks and thoroughly enjoyed watching the river running fast and the sound of flowing water. Where we live most of the river beds are dry, so Northern California is a huge contrast and it was a great live stream. We spent the evening enjoying the live music at Cave Springs, relaxing in Adirondack chairs and playing lawn games. All with the distinctive local smell in wafting through the air - IYKYK! The next morning we walked to our first waterfall, Hedge Creek Falls is a short drive from Dunsmuir and the short walk takes you downhill to a beautiful waterfall. When we first arrived there was a big group so we carried on the hike down to the banks of the spectacular Sacramento River which was wider and more genteel at this point. Oh how we’d missed green trees and flowing water. As the group we had encountered arrived at the river bank we headed back and enjoyed the waterfall alone, clambering across the rocks and walking behind the falls. We headed back to the Jeep for our next stop. The temperature was rising and our next detour off the I5 was towards Mount Shasta and a short hike on the foothills, and it was short - after about a mile we decided it was too hot abandoned the route and jumped back in the Jeep. Next stop Oregon…. Within an hour the I5 was descending quickly and we crossed the border into Oregon. We stopped at a rest stop which was also on Oregon Visitor Information centre - I was in my element, I love the publications that visitor centres create - maps, guides, suggested itineraries I had to hold myself back from collecting it all. They really are worth stopping at and speaking to the staff to get some real local information (not like blogs and Instagram accounts wink). We headed to our night stop at Union Creek Resort, just short of Crater Lake National Park. Our lodge was right opposite the Rouge River Gorge, so we wondered over to find an easy walk along a interpretive trail that was a good geography lesson for H. The sound of the rushing water as it get pushed with the gorge and the cool air on our faces was spectacular. We wondered back across the road and met with our friends who were on a similar route to us, the evening was spent with more Adirondack chairs, a campfire with marshmallows and the Union Creek flowing beside us. Next morning, we were up early as we were pushing through to Portland today. But not before we headed to our first USA National Park - Crater Lake. The road wound up the mountain side to the main village and we parked up, wrapped up and headed to the viewpoint. It was awesome, Crater Lake is the what it says, a volcanic crater that over time the caldera has filled with water. We were at 1,800m (I still don’t speak feet) and the snow was still surrounding the rim, turns out June is early in the season and the rim road was yet to be cleared and open. We walked a short way along the rim, awed at the views, let the boys play in the snow (the nasty compacted stuff that probably fell 7 months ago) and then got back on the road after a mooch in the gift shop and the obligatory purchase of a sticker and a walking pole badge. Crater Lake National Park We could have taken the quick route to Portland but I wanted to see the waterfalls of the Umpqua River valley. Highway 138 is known as “Oregon’s Highway of Waterfalls” and we could have spent a week hiking and exploring this 137 mile stretch of road. We pulled off the highway to go in search of waterfalls. Our first stop was Clearwater Falls, which is an easy five minute stroll from the car park, these falls were low and wide with fallen trees, vibrant green moss and plenty of fun to be had clambering over trees and rocks. This one is really accessible so does mean its quite busy. We headed to our next stop, Watson Falls. These falls are the highest in the National Forest at 90 metres and its a decent hike to get the the viewpoints, there was a lot of up but the reward of seeing the waterfall and feeling the spray on our faces was worth it. And of course its downhill all the way back to the Jeep. We were running short of time and wanted to be in Portland for dinner so we carried on along Highway 138 which follows the river, the colour of the Umpqua River is spectacular, a blue like we haven’t seen before and the towering mountains above. As we came to the end of the route we stopped for refreshments at The Steamboat Inn for coffee and pie and to marvel at this spectacular river. We’ve vowed to come back, this is the sort of place we like - incredible scenery, good hiking trails, lots of campsites and barely any people. Then we headed back to the I5 and on to Portland… Part two coming soon...
- Portland and the Oregon Coast
Nine hundred miles in, five days on the road, and we arrive in Portland (although not our turnaround point). A day in a city gave us a bookshop, donuts, and a no car day before the road took us to Astoria, our turn around point, and the rain-soaked Oregon coast. Goonies nostalgia, stunning coastline, driftwood forts, off-grid peace, and an almost flooded tent. Part two of our roadtrip was as unpredictable as the weather! We’d made it to Portland, the most northerly city in Oregon. 900 miles from home and five days into our trip. We had seen so much that it felt like more than five days! I had booked the Moxy Portland as its a central hotel, a short walk to downtown and had a great triple room. As a family of three we often feel like we are in rooms too big but here they have double rooms with a bunk over the top. Moxy hotels are known for being modern and functional, the room was small but with enough space for our bags and us. No fridge but a good sized bathroom - and a white noise machine to drown out the sound of the city. We finally had a no car day which was much needed. Portland is a very cool and compact city. Our main draw was Powell’s World of Books, a book store that spans a whole block. We spent two hours browsing the mx of new and second hand books and each bought a good selection. This place is so huge that it can be a little overwhelming, my advice would be to be prepared, and make a list of what you are looking for, authors you enjoy or genres. I had listed a few in GoodReads but came out with a difference selection. They had a good local author display so I chose a few based in Oregon. We then explored the city on foot, finding the famous Voodoo Donuts and eating at one of the many food truck plazas that are around the city. The afternoon was spent at the Oregon Museum of Science and Innovation (OSMI) which had a Jurassic World Lego Exhibition and lots of hands on exhibits which made the 10 year old very happy. Dinner at a food hall and refreshed ready for the next leg. Our next stop was Astoria, and our turnaround point. As we snaked along the Colombia River the rain fell and it fell just like a British summer holiday. We were back on the coast (or mouth of the Columbia River). Astoria is a small maritime town with an abundance of history and the location of a few famous movies. We had lunch at the Astoria Brewing Company looking out at the river. Refueled our first stop was the Maritime Museum which told the story of the town and its connection to the coast, the shipwreck exhibition was really interesting as was the coastguard area. I was pleasantly surprised to find a large area devoted to the indigenous communities of the Pacific North West, whom I feel are not yet included or celebrated in tourism as much other another nations do. Then the excitement of the afternoon - in search of the Goonies house and the county jail. The approach to the house is very well done - this is a neighbourhood where people live so there are lots of signs with ‘Hey Guys’ and lines from the movie to ensure visits are respectful and not annoying to the locals. Fish and chips and chowder for dinner and we are ready to rejoin Highway 1 and the journey home - with our winding route along the coast this is still 1,000 miles away. Our first stop was just outside Astoria and Fort Clapstop, here Henry earned his first National Park Service Junior Ranger badge and we all learnt a lot about he Lewis and Clarke expedition that bought early explorers across from the east. Next stop was another Goonies location, the Ecola State Park looks out along the Oregon coast and we got a taste of the spectacular scenery that was ahead of us. Below is the expansive Cannon Beach and Haystacks Rocks, better know as the Goonies Rocks (sorry if you’ve not seen this movie - the references will end soon!). We did a short walk here before heading down into Cannon Beach which is a beautiful small coastal town with cafes and restaurants, gift shops galore and plenty of places to stay overnight. After a lunch at one of the many bakeries we walked down to the beach, which is wide and wild and we walked towards to Goonies Rocks. Along the way we encountered a drift wood fort, complete with a secret note from whomever built ‘Eagles Nest’ and people practicing for a sandcastle building competition. We continued towards our first campsite, with a stop off at the Tillamook Creamery for ice cream, this is kind of like going to Cadbury’s World but think ice cream, cheese and butter. We wound our way along Cape Meares, found a secret beach and the Lost Bay Tunnel and finally arrived at Hart’s Camp at Cape Kiwanda. Tonight is our first under canvas so we made camp, ate dinner and then strolled along the beach before snuggling up in our sleeping bags. The Oregon coast weather in June is decidedly British - unpredictable with the chance of downpours and sunshine. Because of my rule of no one night camping we had another car free day. We woke to rain thundering down on the tent and as I unzipped the tent I came across a flooded porch. The rain abated enough to get breakfast but we were soon retreating to a coffee shop to shelter. Oh how at home we felt! In between the showers (downpours) we explored Cape Kiwanda, climbed the foreboding sand dune and ran back down it. The beach here is stunning and covered in drift wood, you are allowed to light fires on the beach but it was a bit wet for that. We walked along the beach, explored some rock pools and enjoyed the wild coastal views. We did have to retreat to the coffee shop again to avoid the rain, life’s tough! The rain held off enough to enjoy the sunset before another early night to avoid the chill. The following day was due to be a long one on the road and packed full of stops. Not my first choice but a lack of available accommodation meant it had to be this way. I can not emphasis enough how booking early is required in the US for the popular spots. We woke again to heavy rain which was only due to get worse so we did out best to get the tent packed up keeping as much dry as possible and then hit the road. The rain just got worse and worse. Our first stop was Depoe Bay, where on good days you can see whales from the shore - today was not one of those. Rain and heavy seas stumped that plan. There is a small museum where the stories of the whales and sharks are told, its a good place to spend on hour to learn about the ocean. Back on the rainy road and we stopped at points along Cape Perputua. First stop was Devil’s Churn where waves are pushed up a narrow inlet and crash into the air. We watched from the overlook but it was too wet and slippy to take the path down. At Captain Cook point the rain had abated so we pulled in and took a short walk down to Cook’s Chasm, a another inlet with waves crashing in. On the same rocky outcrop is Spouting Horn, a sea cave with collapsed roof that as the name suggests spouts water - but only at hight tide. Thor’s Well is a sink hole close to the shoreline but it was too wet and slippy to get to it. Our final stop for the day was the Oregon Dunes, and we took a walk across the dunes to the sea. This is an expansive area with lots of opportunities for hikes and ATV usage. To be honest, we were all done with the wet day and just wanted to get to out accommodation. And our lodgings for the night redeemed the day for us! I had hoped to do this section slower but I had struggled to find accommodation. I had found the off-grid Beach Overlook on Hipcamp and this was just what we needed. A hut on a cliff top in private land, we wound down backroads to get there and settled in quickly. We explored the grounds and then clambered down to the deserted beach for an evening stroll. We had an early night as the rain started again and were refreshed for the next day. The day started with an outdoor shower and a last wander around this peaceful place. Today was our last in Oregon and the coastline came out to WOW us. Rejuvenated by blue skies and the sun we contented south on Highway 1. We stopped for coffee at Port Orford and discovered a beautiful beach, we could have happily stayed here all day. We admired the view, drank our coffee and headed off the our first stop - the Natural Bridges. The bridges are a series of collapsed sea caves with clear blue water lapping through them. We spent some time at the viewpoint and started along one of the unofficial trails the guide booked warned us about - it wasn’t long before my fear of sheer drops sent us back. We could see people on top of the bridges - gulp! Our final stop was at Whaleshead Beach where we had out tailgate picnic. The rocks apparently resemble a whale - not sure I would have known that without a guide book! The tide was out so the rocks where exposed and there were rock pools to discover, the beach went off into the distance as far as the eye could see. Today really was making up for the washout of yesterday. Our final push and we crossed the border back into California and arrived at Kamp Klamath. Luckily it was warm and sunny as we had some seriously wet kit to organize before we could make camp. There was a lot of faffing but we were now ready to explore the Redwoods. See part three for the journey through the Redwoods
- Discovering Morro Bay: A Wildlife Gem on California's Central Coast
Tucked away on California's Central Coast, Morro Bay is a quaint seaside town, a haven for wildlife with a working harbour. We headed to their hidden gem on our first day trip, exploring Highway 1. Morro Bay: Spot the Otter I’ve worked in the travel industry for many years, and many UK-based tour operators that sell a Highway 1 California Road trip will skip from Santa Barbara to Monterey with a stop at Pismo or San Luis Obispo to break the 4-hour journey. For this reason, I have never heard of Morro Bay. The classic coastal route through Big Sur has been disrupted since 2014, which does explain the detour. But what happens when you slow down, turn off, tune in, and drop down to the coastal route? Living just an hour south of the rugged Big Sur coastline, we were eager to explore. The Big Sur road runs between Morro Bay and Monterey, and after excited stories about wanting to visit Monterey for the mesmerizing marine life and dramatic coastlines, some friends suggested we check out Morro Bay , as it's easily done on a day trip. So, the first weekend as Jeep owners, we headed up Highway 1. This stretch is mostly US Route 101, it's a 4-6 lane highway and quick to get the 65 miles up the coast. It’s midwinter, so it’s chilly but pleasant enough for us newly arrived Brits! We parked on Embaracado, right behind the stores and boardwalk that runs the length of this quaint fishing town. There weren’t many people around, but as we opened the doors, the first thing we heard was the boisterous barks of the sea lions, a cacophony in this otherwise quiet town. We crossed the road, and we were met by a beautiful vista across the bay to the famous Morro Rock. Right in front of us were three sea lions basking on the rocks! Instantly, we knew this was our sort of place: clapboard buildings with independent stores, art galleries, and watersports and whale-watching providers. Cafes and ice cream parlours are dotted along a boardwalk, overlooking the bay towards a sand spit and rock in the distance. A raft of sea lions were basking out on a pontoon, and an abundance of seabirds took refuge at the sand bank across the water. We meandered through the town, browsing the galleries and came across the local birding society kiosk. They shared insights into the bird life in the bay, the best place to spot the otters and learned of conservation efforts in this delicate ecosystem. We were told the best spots to see otters, and as we headed towards the wharf, we spotted our first one - and what a sight it was, lying on its back, relaxing in the winter sun. Morro Bay has an active fish industry, and we were directed up to the wharf for the ‘best fish and chips in town’; as a British family, the best fish and chips are a continent and ocean away. We were pleasantly surprised by how good the fish and chips were - proper chunky chips almost like home. There are plenty of places to get fish-and-chips or chowders on the wharf. We ate at L’il Hut and will be back to try them all. As we ate, a crazy spectacle happened in the harbour behind us: a fishing boat came in; suddenly, the back of the boat was swarmed with sea birds, and the leftover guts were fought over; even a seal came into the action! Fueled and ready to explore more, we walked out to the famous rock and past a disused energy plant, which gives Morro Bay its tagline of ‘Three stacks and a rock’. I was pretty excited to see a sign for a group of cold water dippers that meet regularly in the bay and more excited to see them in the water - at home if I’m going anywhere near water, I pack my kit, but alas, today I was without—an opportunity, and as it turns out a rare one, missed. The walk out wasn’t far and we were treated to our first raft of sea otters, they were lying on their backs, rolling merrily in the sea kelp. We sat on the rocks, a respectable distance from them, and spent a while silently observing the otters. A few dodgy GoPro-through-the-binoculars pictures later, and I was set on upgrading the camera kit. Further on, we rounded the bottom of the rock and out to the sea wall. Waves crashed over the rocks as the harsh Pacific Ocean was kept from the sanctuary of Morro Bay harbour. Pelicans were perched on the far rocks, ready to go fishing for their supper. Across the water is a natural sandbank that makes the natural harbour of Morro Bay. As we headed back, we briefly stopped at the main beach, where the surf was up and the wind was strong. We strolled back to the car, with the obligatory stops at an ice cream parlour and a surf shop, and headed home with the intention of returning (with better camera equipment next time!).
- Discovering Cambria, California: A Mini Road Trip Itinerary
Cambria, a quaint town on California’s Central Coast, offers a laid-back break on this stunning coastline. This seaside village boasts stunning natural beauty, a beautiful town with unique shops and places to eat, and a relaxed atmosphere. Our Spring Break mini road trip took us to Cambria, I hope you enjoy our itinerary. Whilst the weather wasn’t on our side, we enjoyed our few days exploring a new area and making a list of more adventures to have close by. Cambria Village – A Treasure Trove of Local Finds We arrived late afternoon on a Tuesday and drove through Cambria Village. This small town has two main areas—East Village and West Village—and we stopped in the West Village to grab a coffee before heading to our hotel. The Cambria Roasting Compan y had a good selection of speciality coffees. Right next door is the tourist information centre (and the more you read this blog, the more you will know how I love a TIC), where we spent a good 15 minutes chatting to the lady and getting ideas on what to do for our few days. We could have filled a week with all of her ideas! Then we wandered along the street and soon discovered that many of the shops remain closed on Tuesdays! So we ducked in a few and decided to pop back another day. Oceanpoint Ranch on Moonstone Beach – Coastal Bliss So we headed to Oceanpoint Ranch , a good choice on Moonstone Beach. This location is great, you can walk to a small beach along a pathway through the grounds and across the road are some trails and great viewpoints along the coast. Moonstone Beach has black sand and rocky outcrops and is known for its smooth, colourful moonstones that wash ashore. We spent some time getting acquainted with the hotel. There is a pool and games, including corn hole, lasso, and shuffleboard. Gas fire pits with Adrionak chairs add to the laid-back atmosphere. We then took a stroll along the boardwalk, taking in the views and the sound of the crashing waves and ate at Moonstone Beach Bar and Grill . We were there on a fairly chilly April evening, arrived early and had to wait for a table. This place is popular, but they have a seamless system to manage the queue. And wow, its worth the wait! We sat with a view of the ocean and ate locally caught seafood, drank good wine and amazing desserts. We needed the walk back to the hotel! But alas, the Pacific weather was not going to give us a Pacific sunset. Hearst Castle – A Glimpse into Opulence The following morning, we took a short drive and a trop back in time at Hearst Castle. We booked our tour in advance, then parked up and took the bus up the winding road. Once home to William Randolph Hearst, this place it extravagant. It resembles an Italian village and church and it full of European artworks, manicured gardens and opulently decorated rooms. And two of the most amazing pools I have even seen. Both the indoor and outdoor pools resemble Roman Baths, outdoors there are panoramic views of the surrounding landscape are simply magnificent. And the indoor pool is gold gilded and has incredible acoustics. Elephant Seals at San Simeon – A Natural Spectacle Next stop and a short drive along the Pacific Coast Highway took us to San Simeon, home to the incredible elephant seals. The beach is full of them. It is the younger ones at this time of year, so it is a noisy (and sometimes smelly) spectacle. We watch them bask in the sun, fight with each other and roll around in the waves. This coastline has such incredible marine life! Ragged Point – Breathtaking Coastal Views The Pacific Coast Highway is currently closed not far from here, so we continued almost as far as we could: Ragged Point, home to the Big Sur Viewpoint and a lovely stop with a cafe, motel, and gas station. The road winds up high onto the cliffs to get here; it's a slow but scenic drive (more scenic for passengers, the driver's eyes should be glued to the road!). Stopping at Ragged Point allowed us to all enjoy the beauty and have a pit stop. It was windy on this day, so we took some photos and hopped back in the Jeep for the journey back to Oceanpoint Ranch. Cambria village and dinner at Linn's As we missed out on open shops just a few days before we headed back to Cambria to enjoy the art shops and local souvenirs. This quaint town has so much to offer and is full of beautiful artists. One of the more famous spots in Cambria is Linn’s Pie shop. A local institution, it is is known for its delicious food and olallieberry pie, (no I don’t know how to say it either). We had another great meal of local pie sitting under a range of old bicycles. This place had a great atmosphere, again get there early it filled up shortly after opening. We spent our final night at Oceanpoint Ranch around the campfire making s’mores! We’ve fully embraced the American culture. Morro Bay…again On our final day, we headed home and as we had visitors from the UK we wanted to show them Morro Bay. We love this place and enjoy the laid back atmosphere, the almost guaranteed spot of otters and the Fish and Chips - us Brit’s can’t go without this on a seaside trip! Whether you're seeking relaxation, adventure, or a bit of both, Cambria is a great place to visit. There are lots of hotels and a few campsite so no matter how you like to travel there is something for everyone. I’d highly recommend adding Cambria and San Simeon to list of places to visit on the Central Coast, there was so much more to do, I know we will return.
- A day on the Big Sur Road
We returned to Monterey for a post Christmas visit, we pretty much did the same itinerary as last year: https://www.justadventure.uk/post/monterey-bay-in-winter but with the addition of heading down the Big Sur road. This is a classic California road trip. The whole stretch has been closed since 2023 and was due to reopen in March/April 2026 and before I got a chance to write this blog the road reopened early! I would say hurry, get out there before the next landslide but in real life I am a sustainable tourism consultant and just wrote this piece: https://www.justtourism.co.uk/post/highway-1-through-big-sur-is-back It is the 1st January and a overcast cool day in Monterey, the road won’t be too busy in low season will it? We set off after breakfast with a side trip to Laguna Seca racetrack as our guests love motorsport. I genuinely thought this was a local race track not some world famous track in many a racing game! So we spent some time exploring the track and teh famous corkscrew. This became unexpected highlight of the day. Our first stop was due to be Point Lobos State Park, but alas the car park was full and cars were lined along the road. So we pushed on to our first pull in at Garrapata, the pull in was pretty much empty (perhaps we’d skipped ahead of the ‘bubble) so we spent some time wandering the cliff top trails and enjoying the views. We were on the back end of some big storms so the waves were crashing and a deep blue colour. From here we carried on the Bixby Bridge, the oldest bridge on the road and apparently one of the most photographed. We took the obligatory photos and continued on, shortly after we found the Littel Sur Bridge that was actually more impressive than Bixby, bit alas the pull in was full so we had to carry on. As we rounded the corner we found a viewpoint with lots of places and amazing views up and down the Big Sur coastline. The weather was closing in so we carried on to the next stop. We’d planned to drive as far south as McWay Falls, on the expectation that the falls would be thundering due to the rain we’d had but as the road rose out of Big Sur village the fog and mist rolled in as did the rain so we made the decision to turn back and have some lunch in Big Sur village. The Pfieffer Sur State Park is here but we missed the turning point and were all pretty hungry. So we stopped in Big Sur village for a tailgate picnic, only to be told we were on private land and to move on. All packed back up and at the first pull in we ate our picnic in the rain. As with the California central coast, the weather can turn in an instant. We were cold and wet so took the slow drive back to Monterey. Bypassing the planned stop at Carmel as it was even too wet for us Brits to hit the beach± We will return to this road as it is now reopened, and I will take my own advice and try and do it slowly! And hopefully see those azure blue waters this coastline is so famous for!












