Winter in Yosemite

Our post Christmas and New Year trip this year took us with friends to Monterey (where we pretty much did the same itinerary as last time) and as they headed to the airport we crossed California to Yosemite National Park. The plan was swim in the sea in the morning and play in the snow in the afternoon. But, alas, weather had other ideas. Monterey was too cold and rough seas for a dip, and the winter snow was yet to arrive in Yosemite.

Yosemite Valley from Tunnel View

We made a quick stop in Mariposa, a true wild west style town and spent some time in the gem shops and refueling (both the car and us). From here, the road climbed towards Yosemite National Park climbed and wound its way through the mountains, we leveled out as the road hugged the banks of the Merced River. Soon enough we were at the gate (having missed the sign for the obligatory photo) and found ourselves in the awe inspiring Yosemite Valley. 

Within just a few short miles El Capitan was towering above us, as were the Bridalveil Falls, here we stopped for a short walk to the bottom of the thundering falls and we felt the spray on our faces. This is one of the easy trails in the park as it is asphalt all the way to the bottom and has step free access. 

We continued on the one-way road that loops through the park that took us to the Yosemite Valley Lodge.  At one point we were driving on the left because you are supposed to, as a Brit this sent a wave of panic that after a year of driving on the right I had go it wrong! 

Bridalvail Falls

The Yosemite Valley Lodge is located right in the middle of Yosemite Valley and is really tough to get a room there most of the year, we got lucky by coming in the winter. The rooms are clean, comfortable and functional - they could do with being updated but the trade off is the location. Our room had an obscured view of Yosemite Falls through the trees. Within the lodge complex is a General Store where you can pick up supplies and a choice of eateries for all budgets a canteen style restaurant, a lounge bar with snacks and the Mountain Room a proper restaurant with prices to match! We settled in, had our dinner and played games in the room. 

The next day we were excited to start exploring the park even if it was a little rainy - nothing these Brits and good waterproofs couldn’t cope with. As ever with a trip to a National Park, the best place to start is at the Visitors Centre. We drove around Yosemite’s one-way system to discover that the village (where most of the park amenities are)  is a short ten-minute walk from our lodge. We bought to obligatory sticker, walking pole badge and map (waterproof was advised) and asked for suggestions of hikes.

We chose a short one to start us off but when I realised how short it was we reassessed and decided to link two together. So we walked from Ahwahnee Meadow to Mirror Lake. The route started on the wide bike path which is great for getting round the valley on two wheels but a tad boring to walk on.  We soon veered off onto a proper trail that gained a little height and took us through sequoias, massive granite boulders and below towering mountains. Eventually we arrived at Mirror Lake. The peaks were shrouded in cloud which made for an atmospheric view but not the full mirrored image of Half Dome you often get. We admired the view for a while willing Half Dome to appear from behind its cloud  and eventually took the asphalt route to Curry Village. We were following a thunderous creek, fast moving water due to the current rain.

As we arrived back in Curry Village the rain really was coming down. We caught the free shuttle bus around to Yosemite Village within minutes. We stocked up on supplies and headed to our lodge for an afternoon sheltering from the rain, playing games (highly recommend the National Parks version of Yahtzee, organizing photos and relaxing.

The next day, we woke to heavy rain and decided to not do a big hike and took a short walk to Yosemite Village. Here there are two museums that kept us out of the rain for a while. The Yosemite Museum shares the history of the indigenous people that call this land their home and we spoke to a ranger who had worked for National Parks Service  for 35 years. In his current role he engages with communities that are underrepresented as park visitors to showcase that the parks are for all.  He also gave us an insightful lesson how how the mountains are formed in Yosemite. 

We then went to the Mountain Center to learn more about the conservation efforts to protect the park, the geology and, most interesting to me, the history of climbing. The Ansel Gallery is also here, we had a quick look but were wet, tired and had an 11 year old in tow.

A quick lunch and shuttle back to the hotel to escape the rain, we expected and afternoon of snuggling down and a lot of reading. But at around 2pm the snow started to fall. We quickly put on all our layers and waterproofs and headed out. We walked the paved path to Yosemite Falls and the snow was starting to settle. So we continued over to the meadows, crossed a bridge and followed a snowy trail along the Merced River. The snow was getting thicker by the time we arrived back at the lodge.

We were soaked so rested until dinner. We had a warm chilli at the lodge before answering dozens of games, reading and drying out our kit.

Overnight the snow had kept falling so we woke to the winter wonder land we had wanted. We walked to the village and decided to give the try trail to Vernal Falls, which can get pretty slippy, so took the shuttle to Happy Isles.

The trail follows the river and rose quickly. It was a stunning view down the gorge back towards the valley. The snow was falling from the trees as it thawed and we kept getting icy snow dumped on our heads. The path kept rising and the snow was becoming slushy and slippery, we didn’t quite make it to the bridge as we were sliding around a bit and confidence was going downhill too!

We took another of the shuttle buses to Degnan’s Kitchen for a warm bowl of soup before walking back to the lodge. Half Dome was finally out of the clouds and looked spectacular dusted in snow.

After a rest we drove out to El Capitan and spent some time under this magnificent rock face. I had become quite obsessed with wanting to see El Cap since watching Free Solo, and now want to return to climb just a tiny little part of it. 

Half Dome in the snow

We then hopped on another shuttle to Cathedral Beach and walked back to the car. The scenery was amazing. Cathedral rocks towered above us as we stomped through the snow in amongst the trees. We stopped to admire the view of Cathedral rocks and El Capitan from a meadow with a bridge over the river and followed the road back to the car. Back at the lodge, there were snowball fights and our final how the day was done.

On our last day and after packing the car up we drove around the valley loop. The sun was shining and the snow on the mountains looked spectacular. We stopped at El Capitan and then at the meadow overlooking Yosemite Falls to take our final photos.

We made a quick stop at the visitor center to pick up the obligatory Junior Ranger badge, this is such a great program for small ones and not so small ones (me!) to learn all about the parks from the communities to the geography and how to protect them. A must for any trip to a park.

Our final drive took us out of the park via Tunnel View, we stopped for a quick photo. This was the first place for days that we had experienced a crowd and almost did’t get spot to park. I then t drove the winding mountain road to Wawona, I have an irrational fear of sheer drops especially  on mountain roads so it is far better for me to drive and stare at the tarmac and let the boys enjoy the view. At Wawona we wandered around the Pioneer Village and learned the history of the early pioneers. This was an unexpected stop but well worth it, I am in awe of how these people travelled across this landscapes in the 1800’s.

From here we got back on the road and headed home through the Sequoia National Forest and across the boring Central Valley to the Pacific Coast and home. We will return in the warmer months and embrace to crowds. 

Traveling in Low Season

There are so many reasons travel in low season, lower prices, easier to secure accommodation less people and less crowded trails.

Overtourism (too many people visiting one place at one time) is  increasingly and issue for many national parks and schemes such as timed tickets in high season have been withdrawn in the last few years.

Be aware that there isn’t as much open in low season, many of the eateries (particularly in Curry Village are closed) so a little bit of planning is required. Make sure you read the park newspaper provided at the gate as this has what’s open listed or download the National Parks Service App. 

Planning your time in Yosemite National Park

We only scratched the surface of Yosemite as only the valley was open at this time.

My top tip would be utilize the shuttle buses throughout the park. Leave your car at the lodge or your campground and hop on the free buses that stop at many of the trail heads.

This also reduces carbon emissions in the park, you’ve come to a precious place so be mindful of your impact. 

Use the National Parks Service app to decide on what you want to do, visit the Rangers at the visitor center who will advise on conditions and what you should do, give them as much information about your abilities as you can so they match you with the best trails and experiences.

If they are running, take part in a ranger led activity and defiantly do the Junior Ranger Program!

If you do need to go in the summer, plan way ahead and book accommodation/campgrounds as soon as it opens up. The campgrounds book up as soon as bookings open so make sure you have a recreation.gov account and download the app so you are always logged in and ready to book wherever you are the day the campgrounds release. All this information is on recreation.gov

Prebook any tours, in the summer you can do a intro to climbing, kayak on the river and take guided photography courses. All of these will book up. 

And finally, practice Leave No Trace or leave it better than you found it.